Home » How to crochet an invisible join when working in the round – without cutting yarn!

How to crochet an invisible join when working in the round – without cutting yarn!

This tutorial will show you how to crochet an invisible join when working in the round. And the best part: you don’t need to fasten off at the end of each round. With this simple technique you can easily crochet hats in joined rounds, without having to deal with an annoying seam. Read more for a quick and simple tip on how to hide your seams when working in joined rounds!

Invisible join vs normal slip stitch - crochet in the round circle

Difference with other techniques

There are many tutorials out there that will show you how to crochet an invisible join working in the round. The most explained method to create a perfect circle without any seams is also the most time-consuming method: they will tell you to fasten off and re-attach yarn every round. Doable if you only need to work a few rounds, but annoying when you follow a pattern with many rounds. The method I’m going to show you will result in a double crochet circle with straight seams which are almost completely invisible.

This method can be used for many different projects, such as hats, bags, coasters and face scrubs worked in joined rounds. I use this technique any time I have to work in the round. You can even use this technique for starting and joining rounds when making solid squares.

Difference between invisible join and normal join when crocheting in the round making a circle

How this invisible join method works

It works by starting the round with 2 chains which count as the last (yes, last!) stitch. The first ‘real stitch’ will be worked in the same slip stitch. At the end of the round you skip the chain stitches and slip stitch in the first ‘real’ stitch. This way your chains become ‘stuck’ between two stitches and will look more like a normal DC. Don’t worry, it’s really simple! Below you can find detailed step-by-step instructions, including a video.

How to crochet an invisible join - pinterest pin

How to crochet an invisible join working in the round

ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
dc: double crochet


  • The first ‘normal’ dc (worked in the sl st) counts as the first stitch
  • Chain 2 counts as the last stitch
  • Use a loose tension when making the slip stitches (do not pull tight!)

Begin with a magic ring

R1: ch 2, 9 dc into magic ring, sl st in first st (not ch-2) (10)

How to crochet an invisible join when working in the round - magic ring, row 1- ch 2, 9 dc

R2: ch 2, 2 dc in same sl st, 2 dc in next 8 st, 1 dc in sl st from previous round, sl st in first dc (20)

How to crochet an invisible join when working on a crochet hat - row 2

R3: ch 2, 1 dc in same sl st, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st* repeat 8 times, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in sl st, sl st in first dc (30)

How to crochet an invisible join double crochet circle - row 3 start

How to crochet an invisible join with double crochet circle- Row 3 end

Continue as many rounds as needed. Remember: every row you will add one more stitch before increasing. For example:

  • R4: *1 dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st*,
  • R5: *1 dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next st*,
  • R6: *1 dc in next 4 st, 2 dc in next st*, etc.

Finish off using the invisible finish

How to crochet an invisible join when working in the round - invisble finish off


To make it easier, I made a video tutorial showing you how to crochet an invisible join working in the round with double crochet stitches.

* Click here to watch the video on YouTube


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  1. I’ve always hated crocheting circles because of the ugly gap between the start and end of each round. Over many years I’ve tried lots different techniques that claimed to result in an invisible (or nearly invisible) join. Some are impractical (like fastening-off on each round. Ugh! Imagine all the darning in on a big project!), others are fiddly (twisting the yarn on the hook in various ways to make the first stitch of the round bulkier, to fill the gap). Crochet should be a pleasure, not fiddly and annoying. In the end I came up with something similar to this myself, where you create an extra stitch at the end of the round and then skip a st at the beginning. This extra stitch fills the gap but doesn’t add to your stitch count. I always find, also, that working the first increase at the beginning of each round – i.e. not doing the single trebles first (dc for those outside the UK) – makes an even better finish on finer yarns. I mostly work with very fine yarn. Doing the single trebles first looks better with thicker yarn. It’s all about doing a swatch before you start your project and checking out which way works best for your yarn. I’m excited to have found this, which is so similar to my own method and works well on fine yarn. Thank you!

    Thanks for sharing this, it’s going into my ‘perfect circles’ experiments folder. I

  2. I don’t understand, I am working the same amount of stitches for each round. I am doing fpdc and bpdc alternately. How do I do this with these kind of stitches?

    1. Sue this is an old post but I thought if I answer it might help someone else with the same question. I assume you are making a hat or something where you have increased the top part and are now ready to work the front and back post alternate stitches for the ‘body’ of the hat. As you will have the same amount of stitches on every round from here, you just have to make sure you begin each round with the 2 ch, work a front post into the st immediately below and finish the round with a back post st. Then sl st into the top of the first front post st (not the 2 ch) and repeat, ensuring that you have the right amount of stitches each time. I’ve tried it and it works perfectly. Hope this helps someone.

  3. I can’t thank you enough for this tutorial! I l’ve been crocheting off and on for 30 + years, and never heard of the invisible join until very recently. I’ve been watching and reading so many different tutorials for different methods, and none of them were this invisible OR this easy! It really does work for any project in the round , and with any stitch! After hours and days of starting over on the same frickin’ square, I can now finally get one done and move forward with my kitchen theme! Thank you!

  4. I just came across this tutorial, I was looking for a method to avoid the gap when joining with a slip stitch, I’ve watched lots of different videos and this is definitely the method I liked best, so easy and works really well. Thanks for sharing!

  5. Wilma
    Sincere thanks for being a good teacher.
    I have read and watched several instructionals which were only confusing.
    Now I get it. Your method is also simple and does not stop the flow of crocheting.

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