I made my first piece of crochet clothing: a cardigan. When I started this project, I actually wanted to make something else. However, the yarn that I was using was way too chunky for what I had in mind, so I changed plans. This is what came out!
The pattern is very easy and only asks for half double crochet stitches. However, mind you, it’s a very time consuming project! I have only made this cardigan once, so if you see a mistake in the pattern, please let me know in the comments!
– 2 balls of dark grey yarn
– 4 balls of light grey yarn
– 6 mm hook (US J/10 hook, UK 4)
– Zipper, mine was 40cm but if you want the zipper till the end, you should probably go for 45 cm.
I used a local yarn brand that doesn’t ship international. I used 6 skeins in total which were 100g each. I think Chunky Tweed yarn is similar to the Dutch yarn that I used: it looks the same and asks for the same crochet hook.
The size I made is S, but all the instructions will tell you how to make this cardigan in your desired size. It is important to fit all parts while working on it.
If you make this cardigan in a different size, please let us know how many chains you started with and the yarn you used in the comments below. This way you can help others who want to make the same size or use the same yarn. I will share your input here.
Abbreviations (US terms)
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
inc: increase (2 stitches in the next stitch)
dec: decrease (2 stitches together)
The body part is worked in rows. Make 2 turning chains at the end of every row unless stated otherwise. The sleeves are worked in the round.
Use dark grey yarn.
Row 1: Start with 90 chains + 2 turning chains and fit the chain around your chest: the ends should almost touch each other without stretching it.
Row 2: 90 hdc
Row 3 – 6 (4 rows): 90 hdc in the back loops only. This will create a rib effect.
From now on we do not make a rib effect anymore. Work with normal hdc stitches through all loops.
Row 7 – 28 (22 rows): 90 hdc
Change to light grey yarn.
Row 29 – 50 (22 rows): 90 hdc
Do not cut the yarn, we will continue working on the front part.
Front part 2x
Now we are going to make the front part of the cardigan. We have to make a gap for the arms. The front and back part will be made with a few stitches between them. Note: if you work with another amount of stitches than 90, divide the amount of stitches by 4 and round off downwards. This is how many stitches you will start with. For example, 90 / 4 = 22,5 so you use 22 stitches.
Row 51: 22 hdc (22)
Row 52: dec, 20 hdc (21)
Row 53: 19 hdc, dec (20)
Row 54: dec, 18 hdc (19)
Row 55: 17 hdc, dec (18)
Row 56 – 59 (4 rows): 18 hdc
Row 60: 16 hdc, dec (17)
Row 61: dec, 15 hdc (16)
Row 62: 13 hdc, dec (15)
Row 63: dec, 11 hdc (14)
Row 64: 12 hdc, dec (13)
Row 65 – 69 (5 rows): 13 hdc
Cut the yarn and leave a long end for sewing. Repeat rows 51 – 69 at the other side.
Row 51: Skip 3 stitches and start working from there. Work hdc until you’re three stitches away from the other front part.
Row 52: dec, hdc till end, dec
Row 53: dec, hdc till end, dec
Row 54: dec, hdc till end, dec
Row 55 – 69 (15 rows): hdc
Now lay the cardigan flat and fold the two front parts to the middle. With a tapestry needle and yarn, sew the front shoulder parts to the back parts.
SC around the edge
To make the edge look better, single crochet around the edge of the body and neck. I started on the left bottom and sc all the way to the right bottom. Make sure you insert the hook through all loops, otherwise you will get big gaps. I had to re-do this.
– The first 6 rows will be worked in joined rounds. This means you will close the round with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round and chain 2 which doesn’t count as a stitch. Why we do this? To create the same rib effect as we have on the bottom of the body part.
– Also, I started the sleeves with 23 chains. Fit the chains around your wrest, for me 23 was loose enough. If it’s too tight, use more chains.
– In some rows you need to increase. You can make the increase wherever you want, I made them on the side parts of the sleeves.
Row 1: chain 23 and close the round with a slip stitch in the first chain.
Row 2 & 3: 23 hdc
Row 4: 23 hdc in the back loops only
Row 5: 23 hdc
Row 6: 23 hdc in the back loops only
From now on we will work in continuous rounds, so do not make slip stitches and chains anymore.
Row 7 – 14 (8 rows): 23 hdc
Row 15: hdc + inc two times (25)
Row 16 – 19 (4 rows): hdc (25)
Row 20: hdc + inc two times (27)
Row 21 – 24 (4 rows): hdc (27)
Row 25: hdc + inc two times (29)
Row 26 – 29 (4 rows): hdc (29)
Row 30: hdc + inc two times (31)
Row 31 – 51 (21 rows): hdc (31)
Fit the sleeve. It should reach your armpit. If it’s not long enough, make a few more rows of hdc.
From now on we will not work in rounds, but from left to right. Chain 2 at the end of every row.
Row 52: 28 hdc (stop 3 stitches before the end)
Row 53 – 67 (15 rows): hdc and decrease at the end of every row.
Row 68: dec at the start and end of the row.
To attach the sleeves to the cardigan, use a tapestry needle and yarn. Look at the pictures how I did it: I worked from the inside of the cardigan.
Attach the zipper
All you need to do now is attach the zipper. I used a sewing machine, but you can also use a needle and thread.
NOTICE: The written instructions, illustrations, photos, and patterns herein are protected by copyright law. You are free to link to the patterns, but please do not copy!
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