Enchanting Eva Shawl

About Eva

This shawl is dedicated to Eva (25) from Brisbane, Australia. We met through Instagram in 2020. Eva didn’t have a diagnosis and stumbled upon my photo with Jaycee. She recognized herself and reached out to me. The exact same happened to Virginia from Germany that week. Who would have thought only 2 years later the three of us got to meet in real life?

Eva (24), Wilma (28), Virginia (33) in Schwarzwald, Germany. Dec 28, 2022.

About the shawl

For Eva, I wanted to make an elegant shawl design with some lace details. Eva is very calm so I felt like a yellow gradient yarn cake (fingering weight) would be a good match.

The pattern consists of a 8 row pattern repeat that can be repeated as many times as you want. This way you can easily adapt the pattern for a kids’ size or adult size. Below you can find a video tutorial which shows you how to make this shawl step by step.

About this special series of patterns

I was born with a (benign) tumor in my face. For more than 22 years doctors did not know what it was. In 2017 I did a second opinion (honestly, it wasn’t the 2nd, more like a 20th opinion, lol). I finally got diagnosed with FIL, an ultra rare condition affecting only a handful of people worldwide.

I immediately started searching for others and so far I’ve found about 100 people all over the world. It’s amazing how much we look alike. It has become my life goal to find and meet them.

Many of my (upcoming) patterns are special designs inspired by my ‘extended family’ as I call them.

> Read more about me
> Read more about this special series of patterns

Gauge

With hook size 4mm: 20 dc x 10 rows = 4 x 4” / 10 x 10 cm

Written pattern

** An ad-free PDF version is available on Etsy and Ravelry.
It’s designed for printing and this way you can support me **

Ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Or begin with a magic circle.

Row 1 – dc (WS): 
ch 3, 2 dc in ring, ch 2, 3 dc in ring, turn <6 dc> 

Row 2 – dc (GS):
ch 3, 2 dc in first st, 
1 dc in next 2 st,
(1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) in center ch-2 sp,
1 dc in next 2 st,
3 dc in last st, turn <12 dc>

Row 3 – v-st (WS):
ch 4, 1 dc in 1st st, skip 2 st, 
*v-st in next st, skip 2 st* to center ch-2 sp,
(v-st, ch 2, v-st) in center ch-2 sp,
*skip 2 st, v-st in next st* to end,
skip 2 st, v-st in last st, turn <6 v-st>

Row 4 – flowers (GS):
ch 3, 2 dc in first st, 
*sc in next v-st, flower in next v-st* to center ch-2 sp, sc in last v-st,
flower in center ch-2 sp,
*sc in next v-st, flower in next v-st* to end,
sc in last v-st, 3 dc in last st, turn <3 flowers including center>

Flower is worked as following:
[puff, ch 2, sl st in puff] repeat 3 more times, 1 puff. You should now have a total of 5 puff and 4 picot in one v-st.

Tip row 4: add a stitch marker in 3rd puff in center ch-2 sp to make it easier to recognize the center in the next row.

Row 5 – fpdc (WS):
ch 3, 2 dc in first st, fpdc in next 2 st, 
*fpdc in next sc, fpdc in next 5 puff* to center ch-2 sp, fpdc in last sc,
fpdc in first 2 center puffs,
(1 fpdc, ch 2, 1 fpdc) in 3rd center puff,
fpdc in last 2 center puffs,
*fpdc in next sc, fpdc in next 5 puff* to end,
fpdc in last sc, fpdc in next 2 st, 3 dc in last st, turn <30 fpdc>

Row 6 – v-st texture (GS):
ch 3, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 5 st, v-st before first puff 2 rows below, 1 dc in next st, 
*1 dc in next 3 st, 1 fptr in 1st dc of v-st 3 rows below, 1 hdc in next st, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 2 st, 1 fptr in 2nd dc of v-st 3 rows below* to center ch-2 sp, 1 dc in next 2 st, 
(1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) in center ch-2 sp,
1 dc in next 2 st, *fptr in 1st dc of v-st 3 rows below, 1 hdc in next st, ch 1, 1 hdc in next 2 st, fptr in 2nd dc of v-st 3 rows below, 1 dc in next 3 st* to end,
1 dc in next st, v-st after last puff 2 rows below, 1 dc in next 5 st, 3 dc in last st, turn <36 sts not including v-st and fptr/ch>

Row 7 – bobble (WS):
ch 3, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 2 st, ch 6, skip next 6 st, 
*bobble in next ch-sp, ch 6* to center ch-2 sp, 
(hdc, bobble, hdc) in center ch-2 sp,
*ch 6, bobble in next ch-sp* to end,
ch 6, skip 6 st, 1 dc in next 2 st, 3 dc in last st, turn <5 bobbles including center>

Note: push the bobbles to the good side of your work
Fun fact: hdc before and after bobble in center ch-2 sp makes the bobble pop out more

Row 8 – dc (GS):
ch 3, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 2 st, skip next 2 st, 6 dc in next ch-6 sp, 
*fpdc in next bobble, 5 dc in next ch-6 sp* to center ch-2 sp, 
(1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr) in center bobble,
*5 dc in ch-6 sp, fpdc in bobble* to end, 
skip 2 st, 6 dc in last ch-6 sp, 1 dc in next 2 st, 3 dc in last st, turn <48 sts>

Row 9 – ch-sp (WS):
ch 3, 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 
*ch 8, skip 5 st, sc in next st* to center ch-2 sp, ch 8, skip next 3 st, 
(1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) in center ch-2 sp,
ch 8, skip next 3 st, sc in next st, *ch 8, skip 5 st, sc in next st* to end, 
dc in next st, 2 dc in last st, turn <8 ch-sp not including center ch-2 sp>

Row 10 – dc (GS):
ch 3, 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 2 st, skip sc,
*6 dc in next ch-8 sp* to center ch-2 sp, 1 dc in dc before center ch-2 sp,
(dc, ch 2, dc) in center ch-2 sp,
1 dc in dc after ch-sp, *6 dc in next ch-8 sp* to end, 
skip sc, 1 dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in last st, turn <60 dc>

If you have any questions about this pattern, you can join my Facebook Group

Repeat

Repeat row 3 – 10 until row 52 or until your shawl has the desired measurement. Make sure to end with row 4 (flower) for a beautiful border.

Stitch count

The table below shows the amount of stitches you should have at the end of each row. Note that stitch count does not include 2 center chains. First 3 turning chains count as 1 stitch.

Tassels (optional)

Make 2 tassels (one for each end of the shawl).

1. Wrap the yarn around your hand or phone 50 times or until you find it thick enough. Cut two more strands which are about 40 cm / 16″.

2. Fold one strand around one of the two ends. Tie a tight knot.

3. Cut the yarn on the bottom (opposite of your knot)

4. Fold the other strand around the top of your tassel, about 1 cm from the top knot. Secure tight.

5. Trim the bottom

Blocking

You can (steam) block the shawl to help smooth the stitches.